M.C. Escher in Rome, Part I

Recently we went to the blockbuster exhibition at Palazzo Bonaparte of the work of Maurits Cornelis Escher, better known as M.C. Esher.

M.C. Escher self-portrait

This was the first time I had been in Palazzo Bonaparte — so-called because Napoleon’s mother lived there for much of her later life.  It was nice to get a little peek at the lovely apartments where she lived.

In the palazzo, a copy of a statue by Canova, apparently Napoleon’s head on the body of the god Mars. Quite funny.  The Duke of Wellington ended up owning the original; apparently his friends hung their umbrellas on it.

 

A glimpse into how beautifully decorated Madam Bonaparte’s apartment was

While I knew Escher for his wonderful tessellations and optical illusions, I had no idea he had a strong connection to Rome. As it turned out, the exhibition was timed to celebrate 100 years since he first came to Italy.  His first visit to Rome was in 1923. In 1925 he returned with his wife and settled in Monteverde Vecchio at the foot of the Janiculum, on Via Poerio, no. 122, where he and his family lived. It’s also where he had his studio. He and his wife welcomed two sons while they lived in Rome. Escher stayed in Rome until 1935, when the family moved to Switzerland and then to Belgium. After World War II broke out, he returned to his native Holland, where he died in 1972. 

This tremendous exhibition of over 300 works on two floors, takes the usual chronological course through his unusual work.

The exhibition

 

The carpet in an early section of the exhibition — a hint of what was to come

The art from his early period was quite unknown to me — and its sheer beauty blew me away. This work was not unusual, but more “traditional,” before he developed his trademark style. It was absolutely gorgeous and demonstrated an amazing level of skill. You could clearly see his inspiration from German woodblock prints, as well as Japanese prints.

Sunflowers, 1918

 

Old Olive Tree, Corsica, 1934

Apparently his favorite subjects in Rome were of architecturally interesting buildings, particularly by night:

Castel Sant’Angelo, 1934

 

St. Peter’s Colonnade, 1934

 

Close-up of Trajan’s Column, 1934

 

Closeup of San Michele dei Frisone, 1932. St. Peter’s Basilica in the background — the bell tower hints at his future work.

During this time he and his family took many trips to other parts of Italy, including the Amalfi coast, Sicily, Calabria, and Viterbo.  The beautiful images he made from these travels all hint at what was to happen later in his art.

Atrani, Coast of Amalfi, 1931

 

Cloister near Rocca Imperiale, Calabria, 1931

 

Street in Scanno, Abruzzi, 1930 — and we know we will see those stairs again!

Then, his art, and the exhibition, changes.

The next section of the exhibition, note the wonderful floor!

 

Close-up of Bird, Fish (No. 110), 1961 — And, here we go!

More on the exhibition in the next post!