Recently we went to the blockbuster exhibition at Palazzo Bonaparte of the work of Maurits Cornelis Escher, better known as M.C. Esher.
This was the first time I had been in Palazzo Bonaparte — so-called because Napoleon’s mother lived there for much of her later life. It was nice to get a little peek at the lovely apartments where she lived.
While I knew Escher for his wonderful tessellations and optical illusions, I had no idea he had a strong connection to Rome. As it turned out, the exhibition was timed to celebrate 100 years since he first came to Italy. His first visit to Rome was in 1923. In 1925 he returned with his wife and settled in Monteverde Vecchio at the foot of the Janiculum, on Via Poerio, no. 122, where he and his family lived. It’s also where he had his studio. He and his wife welcomed two sons while they lived in Rome. Escher stayed in Rome until 1935, when the family moved to Switzerland and then to Belgium. After World War II broke out, he returned to his native Holland, where he died in 1972.
This tremendous exhibition of over 300 works on two floors, takes the usual chronological course through his unusual work.
The art from his early period was quite unknown to me — and its sheer beauty blew me away. This work was not unusual, but more “traditional,” before he developed his trademark style. It was absolutely gorgeous and demonstrated an amazing level of skill. You could clearly see his inspiration from German woodblock prints, as well as Japanese prints.
Apparently his favorite subjects in Rome were of architecturally interesting buildings, particularly by night:
During this time he and his family took many trips to other parts of Italy, including the Amalfi coast, Sicily, Calabria, and Viterbo. The beautiful images he made from these travels all hint at what was to happen later in his art.
Then, his art, and the exhibition, changes.
More on the exhibition in the next post!